Putting up walls (Build process)

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The previous post covered the materials we decided on using for the external cladding, windows and doors but at the same time was a leap ahead in the process. The reasoning behind that is I needed to know exactly what materials were to be used in order to work out things like the cavity width between the external cladding and the timber stud wall frame.

The shed frame is not designed or intended to be clad with weather boards or have large doors and windows installed. Originally it consisted of posts and arches joint via lengths of purlins fixed horizontally along the structure then wide sheets of corrugated iron screwed to the purlins vertically quite a simple design. So if we wanted long windows and weatherboard cladding i needed to retrofit the frame to suit.

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Above image☝A sketch (mud map) I drew and sent to a friend when trying to calculate how wide the cavity was going to be from the inside face of the wall (plaster board) to the external cladding (weather boards) this was an especially important measurement when building the reveals for the windows to ensure that when installed the weather board would seat into the window frames channel.

In the above sketch the 90mm timber frame is fixed between the steel posts flush to outside edge. Then  horizontal purlins can be fixed to the timber frame also helping to stiffen the structure. Once the horizontal purlins are attached to the frame 40mm baton is attached vertically at 500mm centers. The baton is installed and acts as the corrugated iron would have but now enables the hardwood weather boards to be fixed in place……

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From the outside in – weatherboard, baton, purlin, post.

Above image ☝ Hopefully makes sense of the detailed ramblings above it shows the lay out of the wall without the timber frame installed.

Moving forward

I now knew where the windows and doors would go and how the timber frame would be integrated into the steel frame it was time to start putting hammer to nail.

To start out I flicked lines between each steel post where i wanted the bottom plate (length of timber that is on the bottom of the frame) to be installed. Rolled out a product called damp course (Thin aluminium sheet covered in a sandy black tar coating) to create a moisture proof barrier between the frame and the concrete slab then fixed the bottom plate to the concrete via 12mm dyna bolts.

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From this point the walls were pieced together stud nog stud nog e.t.c (studs are the vertical lengths of timber and nogs are the short horizontal lengths of timber) Taking into account where the openings for the windows and doors would need to be created.

Jack studs and lintels

When I mentioned above that the original shed frame was not designed to have windows and doors throughout it this also ment there would be a couple more hurdles we would need to jump in order to get the design we wanted. Originally there was 8 posts 4 per side of the frame and they were ment to be at 3 meter spacings. However the issue this created was their would be a steel post running right through the center of the kitchen/sitting room windows. Obviously this could not happen luckily my good friend Shep had a moment of clarity during the standing of the frame and recommended we remove 2 posts and increase/extend the spacings. This created other issues but ultimately allowed the long windows in the kitchen/sitting room to work. By altering the spacings on the posts i know had a larger span on the roof components which we reinforced by doubling of the purlins and at a later date built and installed 2 more arches (this will be covered in the later).

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Above image☝The sitting room window opening. Notice the double studs on each side of the window and how they locate and support the lintel (large dark timber beam). The lintels were installed to transfer weight from the center of the long openings for the windows and doors. They work like a bridge transferring the weight to the jack studs (timber studs that are fixed below the lintel) which supports and transfers the weight to the ground.

The lintels are all Oregon timber which is light weight and has good spanning capabilities perfect for the task at hand. Thanks to my amazing neighbor I was supplied with all the lintels required for the cottage at no cost! after refusing a monetry payment he did however accept a Bottle of spirits he is familiar with.

After a number of trips over the next few months one by one the external walls went up then finally the internal partition walls which form the bedroom and wardrobe walls.img20160703151018

Above image ☝Bulk of the external walls up at this stage we had not yet acquired the doors thus no frames could be built until the door size was certain.

Above images ☝ Internal walls.

During this process I had made one mistake on each wall which will reveal itself when the installation of the windows takes place and will be detailed on that post. Note i am not a residential carpenter and the framing process was completely new to me but with guidance of friends and carpenters that i deal with on a daily basis in my occupation i was able to piece these walls together.

Things I learnt

  • Studs should be at even centers I generally stuck to 450mm spacings
  • Nogs don’t pick up your pasteboard sheet joins
  • Roofing screws and baton screws are epic for fixing timbers in hard to nail places
  • persistence payed off

Just to clarify…..wall-edit

This frame can be applied to a multitude of build applications as once I built the first wall i just adapted the pattern to suit each individual wall and window opening.

Next post will cover building the reveals around the windows and installation.

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